hunting-bow, Dokumenty, książki
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By Sam Brown
Hunting game with bow and
•*• -*- arrow packs a real wallop.
There's a thrill in seeing an arrow
go winging toward its mark. Even
a close miss is fun. So many
sportsmen have adopted this sport
that some states have exclusive
bow-and-arrow hunting reserves
where firearms are prohibited.
A bow for hunting
should be as short as
practical, ranging in
length from 4 ft. 8 in. to
5 ft. 6 in. It should be a
plain bow, able to stand
a lot of knocking around.
36
The drawing weight need not be excessive; you can
bring down the toughest game in the country, in-
cluding moose, bear and wild boar, with a 45 to 50-
1b. bow and a steel broadhead arrow. Most hunters
prefer a flat or semiflat bow. The demountable type
of semiflat bow described here is popular because
of ease of transportation, and the knockdown handle
in no way affects smooth, fast shooting. If this is
your first bow, by all means make it of lemonwood,
as this compact and nearly grainless wood permits
mechanical shaping without any regard to grain
structure. If you want the best, however, use osage
orange or boam. Yew is good, too, although a little
too soft for rough usage. All bow woods except lem-
onwood require careful following of the grain.
Start by roughing out the back of the bow. Osage
orange is perfect in this respect; just peel off the
bark, and the remaining layer of sapwood, about
Via
in. thick, is just right. Yew and boam have more
sapwood and will require trimming down. This can
be done best on a band saw as in Figs. 1 and 2,
mounting the stave on a guide board and then saw-
37
ing on a line the required distance away
from the heartwood. Pins holding the stave
should be a snug drive fit in holes drilled
squarely across the chord of the grain, as
indicated in Fig. 1, If there is too much
heartwood, it can be trimmed down with
the same setup. Where there is just a little
extra wood on the heart side, a planer head
in the drill press will remove it in a jiffy,
Fig. 3. In the absence of power tools, the
staves can be trimmed with a drawknife.
The first stage of cutting gives you a flat
stick about % by
l
x
/z
in. with a thin layer
of white sapwood on the back as shown in
Fig. 5. Here you can see why it is easy to
work with lemon wood; you have no sap-
wood to worry about, and the compact
grain permits ripping and jointing to
straight lines. All the other woods will be
crooked, the back of the bow following
every dip and curve in the grain. After
band-sawing, smooth up the back of the
bow -with drawknife and scraper, follow-
ing the grain. Fig. 4 shows table of net
sizes for bows of different woods.
On the back of the stave, draw the out-
line shown in Fig. 5, band-saw to shape and
taper the belly side as in Fig. 6. You will
cut across tKo grain to some extent in
both operations, but it is only on the back
of bow that you positively must follow
the grain. Glue the handle riser in place,
Fig. 8, and then band-saw it both ways
to the shape shown in Fig. 7. Both limbs
of the bow are treated in the same way
except that the upper limb should be 2
in. longer than the lower one, as in Fig. 9.
The demountable feature is accomplished
by fitting the limbs of the bow inside a
metal tube. You can buy telescoping tubes
for this purpose, or you can make your
own. Fig. 14 shows the general nature of
the assembly. The short inside tube is
pinned to the lower limb and the long outer
tube is pinned solidly to the upper limb,
the lower limb being a slide fit inside the
outer tube, where it is held rigidly by
means of a setscrew. Making your own
telescoping tube is just a matter of turning
and boring, Fig. 12, and then squeezing the
assembled tubes in a vise as in Fig. 13, to
get the required oval section. It is advis-
able to heat the work, otherwise the steel
may crack at the shoulder portion. The
original fit of the round tubes should not
be too snug.
Figs. 10 and 11 show the final stage of
shaping the bow, rounding off the belly
with a drawknife or coarse and fine rasps.
Osage orange may be so knotty as to re-
quire entire shaping by filing. Whenever
you run into a knot, leave a little extra
wood to compensate for the natural weak-
ness caused by the defect. Finish off the
limbs by scraping with a hook scraper or
a piece of broken glass.
As you work down the belly side, tiller
the bow frequently as shown in Fig. 15,
checking its drawing weight, and more
important, the bend of the limbs. Some
workers tiller against a -wall and use a grid
of pencil lines to check for equal bending.
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However, good results can be obtained by eye
inspection alone, and by noting if the string tends
to pull off to one side as you pull it back. The bow
should be rigid through the handle, and almost
rigid the full length of the handle riser. Starting at
the end of the handle riser, the limbs should bend
in a graceful arc. Go slow at this stage; it is very
easy to remove too much wood and ruin the bow.
If you get a little under the poundage you want,
cut an inch off both limbs and try it again. Get
the pull about 5 lbs. more than you want; it will
let down about that much after you have used it a
few hours. If the bow is much too heavy through-
out, make a fast dip immediately beyond the han-
dle riser to get a thinner section, and then taper
gradually to the tips. Nocks should be of the plain
type cut into the wood as in Figs. 16 and 17. Fig.
18 shows the finished bow at the handle.
There are two kinds of hunting arrows: blunts
and broadheads. The blunt points, details A, B
and C of Fig. 19, can be made from cartridge cases
dous hitting power. They will bowl over a rabbit
or knock a squirrel out of a tree. The need for the
blunt point is obvious; you can imagine what hap-
pens to a sharp steel broadhead when you wham it
into a tree trunk, or worse, a high tree limb.
Steel broadheads are needed for both small and
big game. With sharp-cutting edges, even a 40-lb.
39
bow will send one of these shafts right
through a two-point buck. The smallest
practical head is the lancet shown at D,
Fig. 19. This is made by slotting a regular
bullet-type arrow head, and then soldering
the notched steel head into the slot as in
Figs. 20, 21 and 22. Easiest type to make
in any size of broadhead is the tang-and-
sleeve style shown at E and explained in
Fig. 20. The step-by-step operation in mak-
ing a broadhead, style F, is shown in Figs.
23 to 28. If you use .30-cal. ball cartridge
cases, it will be necessary to have a tang
on the broadhead for needed strength.
With a sleeve of thicker copper or steel
tubing, the split ends of tube alone will
hold the head, which can be made a simple,
triangular shape without tang. Old power
hacksaw blades furnish good steel for
heads. All of the styles shown can be pur-
chased readymade if desired. Fletching of
shafts follows standard practice except that
the feathers are preferably of the low, long
triangular style as shown in Fig. 25. Com-
plete construction kits including heads, cut
feathers and birch shafts can be purchased
at a nominal cost and provide an ideal
method of working. The diameter of shafts
will depend somewhat on the pull of your
bow. If the pull is 40 lbs. or under, %e, or
n
/32-in. shafts are plenty heavy. Bows pull-
ing over 45 lbs., especially when big broad-
heads are used, must have %-in. shafts to
stand up under the terrific impact.
Holes in Window Screen Mended by Easily-Made Patches
Small holes in window screens can be
mended by easily-made patches cut from
ordinary screen wire, thus making it un-
necessary to replace the entire screen. To
make a patch, cut a piece of screen a little
larger than the hole to be mended. Next,
pull two strands from each side of the cut
piece, and bend up the projecting wires at
a right angle as shown. Place the patch
over the hole, push the wire ends through
the screen and fold them inward to secure
the patch. For a tight seam all around, tap
the folds lightly with a hammer, using a
block of wood as a support.
H. S. Siegele, Emporia, Kas.
Sticking of Stamps Avoided
When Carried in Pocket
I find that when carrying loose postage
Stamps in my pocket ox pu™: Lhcy will not
stick together if I first rub the gummed
surfaces lightly over my hair. The thin oil
film deposited on the stamps from the hair
will last indefinitely and keep the stamps
ready for use without interfering with the
adhesive.
George K. McKeowan, Painesville, Ohio.
40
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